ROOM WITH A VIEW

We have a Room with a View. Not of the Arno, like Lucy Honeychurch’s, but one which we much prefer. Our bedroom window overlooks a cemetery which intrigued us from the first. There, cut deep into a slab, was the outline of a large cross. Near it stood a red granite obelisk and a square headstone. Other graves were scattered about in the small plot. It seemed to be walled in with no entrance, so we had no hope of visiting the graves. We contented ourselves by looking at the tombstones through binoculars and taking pictures.

One of the treats of having the graveyard under our window is the birds find sanctuary amid the thistles, pomegranate tree, dandelions, cane, and bushes growing there. I’ve spent hours watching the sparrows, hooded crows, doves, martins, and others as they fly in, rest, peck in the leaves and weeds, and fly away.

One morning, unexpectedly, a pair of ring-necked parakeets appeared. They fascinated us as they perched on a flimsy limb to guard a knot hole. The female wriggled into the hole and stayed for awhile. Occasionally, the male flew in for a visit. Curious sparrows came and watched, too. The parakeets didn’t seem to mind. But, when the hooded crows came near, there was a fierce confrontation.

We had considered it just a bird-watchers’ paradise until last Shabbat. While I was videoing the parakeets, I was interrupted. Then surprised. Surprised, because I heard voices coming from across the graveyard. Then, even more surprised to see a dozen people headed toward the obelisk.

I aimed my camera at the group. The tour guide was miked, so I could hear him very well. He was speaking Hebrew and pointing to the obelisk. The words I understood were, “Hodgkin, Hodgkin’s Disease”. He read the epitaph in English. Then he read Brigadier General Edward Thomas Michell’s epitaph, also in English. Soon after the group left, another arrived.

One of us is a history buff and both of us are interested in genealogy. We had to find the entrance to the graveyard.

Yesterday afternoon we struck out. Several blind alleys later, we found a lane off Yefet Street winding through a well-worn neighborhood. Skirting the boys’ soccer game, we followed an overgrown path to a rusty gate crowned by a cross. Hidden behind a dirty metal sign and a dilapidated fence was the treasure. A Christian graveyard. I pushed aside the weeds and brushed debris from the old stones so Neal could take photos.

As we read the epitaphs, these long-dead people who struggled so valiantly in an alien land became our brothers and sisters.

Here are some of the epitaphs:

Here rests the body of Thomas Hodgkin, M.D. - of Bedford Square London
A man distinguished alike - for scientific attainment - medical skill
and self sacrificing philanthropy - He died at Jaffa - the 4th of April 1866
in the 68th year of his age - In the faith and hope of the gospel – humani nihil a se alienum putabat - The epitaph is inscribed by his - deeply sorrowing widow & brother to record their irreparable loss
††
Sacred to the memory of - Brigadier General Edward Thomas Michell - of the Royal Artillery - Commanding the Forces of Her Britannic Majesty in Syria - Companion of the Order of the Bath - Commander of Isabella the Catholic - and Knight of St. Ferdinand and of Charles III of Spain - who died at Jaffa on the 24th of January 1841 - AE [age]54 -
He was distinguished by high and noble qualities - By long and brilliant services - And by the affection and regard of all who knew him - The officers of H. B. Majesty’s forces serving in Syria - In testimony of their esteem and regret - To render sacred the spot where his remains repose
††
In memory of Elizabeth Caroline Wardlaw Ramsay - For many years a missionary of the C.M.S. at Acca [Akko] - who died at Jaffa - January 18, 1913.
Be thou faithful unto death and I will give thee a crown of life
††
Mrs. Weinberg - Born. Feb.3.1850 - Died. Aug. 24.1896.
In hope of the Resurrection
I Cor. XV.58
††
Capt. T. W. Sharp of Newville Pensylvania [sic] U. S. A.
Born May 24, 1831 - Died April 7, 1881. Rejoice O grieving heart!
The hours fly fast;
In each some sorrow dies,
In each some shadow flies
Until at last
The red down in the east
Bids weary night depart
And pain is past.
††
In loving remembrance of Mary Briscod Baldwin - forty two years a missionary of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America - At Athens, Greece - And Joppa, Palestine –born in Virginia U.S.A. – May 20, 1811 – died in Jaffa – June 20, 1877- there is no difference - between the Jew and the Greek – for the same Lord over all – rich unto all that call – upon Him - for, whosoever- shall call upon the name - of the Lord shall be saved – how beautiful are the feet – of them that preach the – gospel of peace, and bring – glad tidings of good things
††
Sacred to the memory of - Jane - daughter of - Professor G. A. Walker-Arnot, - (of Glasgow University) - Born 1st June 1834, died 21st May 1911. - Who founded the Tabeetha Mission School - and for 48 years - devoted herself to that work in Jaffa. -Looking for the blessed hope and the glory of the great God and our Savior JesusChrist.
††
What an intriguing lady. The school still exists right around the corner. Interested? See http://www.tabeethaschool.com/

What a gracious reward for just looking out our window.